Simone

Her acne reveals that she is still leaving her teenage years behind. She is very modest, even somewhat shy, yet at the same time self-assured. She lives in Kleinarl, a village neighbouring Grossarl in the province of Salzburg. When she hears that we are heading to a large music store, she quietly mentions that she plays music herself. She is a member of the local brass band, which is scheduled to perform that evening. Unfortunately, she cannot be there because she has to work. The dilemma is palpable. Yet she has chosen her job at the hotel where we are staying.

It is around ten o’clock in the evening when dinner has finished. Simone then starts clearing up and preparing the tables for breakfast the next morning. And she will be there again the following morning. The journey from one village to the other takes almost an hour. She makes us feel how proud she is of her village and of her work. From head to toe, she is dedicated and service-oriented. When, through my own clumsiness, I get in her way, she is the one who says Entschuldigung. She embodies what Austria stands for: tradition, dedication and pride.

Tradition and modern development hand in hand

At our hotel, the third generation of the family is already waiting in the wings. Father and mother are actively involved in the business and enjoy chatting with the many returning guests. Grandmother still walks around tending the flowers on the balconies. The quality is outstanding and the facilities are highly advanced. So it is possible: tradition and modern development can coexist.

Of course, I am in holiday mode and therefore tend to see the world around me through a more positive lens. The sun shines over the magnificent landscape and the mountain air is wonderfully refreshing. Yet I cannot escape the feeling that, in many respects, the Austrians simply do things better than we do. They are calm; by ten o’clock in the evening there is hardly a sound to be heard. At seven in the morning, however, they are already hard at work. Mowing grass on a steep mountainside is no small task. I watch and admire their diligence.

I appreciate their emphasis on family, healthy living, physical activity and, at the same time, enjoying life. The products offered at the breakfast buffet are impressive and, more often than not, sourced locally.

Nuremberg

You always bring something back from a holiday abroad. Not a souvenir, but inspiration. On our journey home, we decided to spend two nights in Nuremberg. We had previously visited the site where Hitler delivered his speeches. The city is well worth exploring. It is rich in history, but also has a clear connection to the Third Reich. The people of Nuremberg do not deny that chapter of their past. It remains, of course, an uncomfortable part of history.

The castle, towering above the city, tells stories of centuries gone by and illustrates the power of the German Empire. During the Nazi era, important guests were received there. The atmosphere of the Altstadt stands in stark contrast to this dark period. It is warm, friendly and remarkably peaceful. It is hardly surprising that Albrecht Dürer, who was born in Nuremberg and spent much of his life working there, was able to create such masterpieces in this environment.

The tranquillity is suddenly broken when mounted police appear in the old city centre, followed by police vehicles with flashing lights and a large number of officers on foot. They are the advance guard of a demonstration by people protesting against immigration and what they see as the erosion of traditional German values. Waving German flags and carrying banners with unmistakable messages, they loudly express their dissatisfaction with what they perceive as inadequate border protection and the failure of democracy.

Shortly afterwards, a counter-demonstration arrives, organised by supporters of gender and sexual orientation freedoms. Interestingly, the appearance of both groups shows considerable similarities: colourful hair, tattoos and inexpensive clothing.

The many visitors strolling through the city centre, often from international backgrounds, appear largely unaffected. They simply continue licking their freshly bought ice creams and wandering through the streets.

I would like to make a plea for giving the German language a more prominent place in our education system. It seems strange that our children speak English in countries that are so important to us and from which there is still so much to learn.